Thursday, September 16, 2010

Dublin Dereliction Duty: Tivoli Car Park

Francis Street, Dublin

For someone who hasn't bought a record album since some Madness record in, oh, 1986, I do keep a soft spot in my heart for vinyl. Sometimes I still find myself calling them rekkid albums, in an affected voice that's supposed to conjure up a stogie-smoking producer from a bygone era: Hey kid, this rekkid is gonna make you a star.

Last entry's Caroline Records sign is about as beautifully bleak as it gets when it comes to memorializing outdated technology. (Really, you don't ever see artfully rotting signs for VHS, do you? -- but maybe I'm not looking hard enough.) What makes this "VINYL" an interesting companion piece to the Caroline Records sign is the "VINYL" sign isn't old at all. It's just been crafted by a canny street artist to look that way. And if you stick around this car park long enough, you might just find your nostalgia interrupted by a businessman hopping into his BMW. But that might, ya know, ruin the illusion.

More street art treats from the Tivoli car park can be gawked at here. It's truly one of my favorite hidden spots in Dublin.

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Dublin Dereliction Duty: Caroline Records


Rathmines, Dublin

Few things bring out the warm & fuzzy side of me like urban dereliction. Add "artfully rotting type" into the mix, set me down somewhere in Dublin, and I feel so good I practically need a list of harmful side effects.

There is a long stretch of seedy shop fronts that leads down to Rathmines, where I ratholed myself in a tiny flat one long-ago autumn. While a supporter of public transport in general, I have a severe allergy to Dublin Bus, so I generally walked the forty-five minutes or so from my flat into the city centre, where I'd pass this sign nearly every day. Funeral homes, charity shops, depressing internet cafés. Not much to feel inspired by. But this one, the Caroline Records sign, never failed to catch my eye.

Friday, September 10, 2010

Typefeast: Dublin 2010

Dublin

What's that you say? A typeface conference going on this weekend? In Dublin? Would that be Dublin, Ireland? And a fare sale going on at Aer Lingus? Hang on. And what's this? There are precisely fifty-five cents in my bank account? Very well then. It appears I shall have to resort to this frayed, torn, devastated sign of Irish typography to convey my frayed, torn, devastated soul at having to sit this one out. But for those about to embark on this weekend's ATypI conference in Dublin, I do hope you'll report back.

There's a good story (brought to my attention by one of my astute readers) in yesterday's Irish Times about the conference if you want to read about The Joy of X. In the meantime, who can I geek out with about the typographical inconsistencies in the Proclamation of the Irish Republic? You wanna talk about how that "C" in "republic" was really a re-purposed "O"? Well do ya punk?

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Not Here Either

Venice, Italy

In this update-saturated age, disappear from anywhere online long enough, and you're bound to have one of two things happen: one, the time you've spent away will weave a Pynchonesque cape of mystique around your absent authorial self, which will inspire whisperings about what epic project you must undoubtedly be crafting behind closed doors. Or two, and this is the part where I wake up, you, well, just disappear. Fall off the radar. Go running off the RSS-feed ledge and don't even know it until, like Wile E. Coyote, you look down and notice that yawning chasm that's opened up at your feet. That's what I get for not blogging for two months. A bad Road Runner metaphor and a peeling sign in Venice that makes the excuses for me.

See, I'm a creature of habit. Take away the number-a-day structure and what do I find? About ninety hours of scrolling through iPhoto, chortling to myself and saying, "Ah now, there's a lovely one. If only I had 364 more mildly amusing No Parking signs from various spots around the globe, I might be onto something."

I enjoy structure. Really, it's a great thing. I can't imagine life without calendar boxes, page-a-day planners, sturdy apartment buildings, blueprints, wine. (Give me a menu that describes a wine as having "a great structure" and I'll order it no matter what other silly adjectives are used to describe it.) I also enjoy counting, especially as I've turned out a failure in all other aspects of math, and having pictures to go along with the tasks delights the two halves of my brain, which usually wouldn't be caught dead conversing with one another. So yeah, the numbers are gonna make a comeback. Not right away. But they will be back.

In the meantime, I'm getting closer to wrapping up a hefty offline writing project (this will no doubt sound familiar) and as I approach the next of the penultimately almost-last final drafts of that, I'm going to be digging back through the pretty picture archive for some yummy typographical treats. Don't say I didn't warn you.

It might be a little more right-brained and scattered here for awhile. Which is really my way of saying I don't know what I'm doing or the order I'm doing it in. But do know I'm glad to be doing it. After a long time away, one thing's clear: here is better than not-here.

Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Me at Work


Dublin, 1996

A few years ago, I talking with a friend of mine in Dublin about all the changes that had gone on in his city over the past ten or fifteen years. As an unabashed architecture rubbernecker and perpetual cranespotter, I was curious to see what he thought of all the new buildings and developments that had sprung up. Some of the new neighbors have been more obvious than others: a massive shiny syringe millennium spire (arrived on the scene three years late), a handful of new modern bridges named after old modernist writers, and not least of the bunch, the slinky silvery transport of the Luas.

The Luas (the name translates as "speed") is a tram system put in back in 2004 that seemed, when I first saw its network of complicated tracks and overhead wires, both remarkably new and like some kind of throwback to the Dublin James Joyce wrote about, the kind of old-fashioned tram that a spinster could've left a cake on while a randy old colonel winked at her, albeit with a sleeker new design and a few more Ben & Jerry's ads ("Flavor on the Luas") pasted to the windows. It also was built without an interconnector linking the two routes, an oversight which would infuriate if it didn't now seem like a remarkable symbol of Celtic Tiger Ireland: the end result of half-arsed planning, visionary enthusiasm, and an influx of magical cash that, it turns out, wasn't even real.

Route-wise, I could've really benefitted from the Luas when I lived in Ranelagh in 1999, though how else would I have traipsed through the south side, scorning the bad bus service, listening to Tori Amos on my Walkman, developing my as-yet-unrealized role as a flâneur and unsung urbanist? The sight of this new tram snaking around O'Connell Street, silent as an assassin, first surprised me when I returned to Dublin after a few years away. But a little light rail, especially in a traffic-strangled city like Dublin, is good for all. When it's not busy smashing itself into number 16 double decker buses, it's even a pleasant way to get around the city.

The Luas, like the spire, ended up taking much longer than planned. It was but a twinkle in a transport planner's eye in the nineties when I lived there, but by the time I was getting kicked out of the country by the authorities, work was already underway to start the two lines.

My friend, who we'll keep nameless, told me how he'd been hired to do some surveying work on the project early on. The job required him to show up at Heuston Station each morning to collect a hi-vis jacket and theodolite from an architect, then go about the rest of the day from house to house measuring the distance from sea level. It wasn't back-breaking work, he reported, and was made easier by frequent breaks for frisbee in St Stephen's Green and a few rounds of snooker at Big Al's Pool Hall. The task was so easy, in fact, that he managed to tally an entire month's worth of measurements in one day, just in time for the deadline. "And people wonder why the Luas took so long," he conceded, before asking if I fancied another Guinness.

So much for speed.

It goes without saying that things have been quiet over here in Ampersand Land, and while I'll steer clear of the actual hand-wringing (a bad habit that makes me look even more like a character out of Dostoevsky than I already do), I do feel obliged to send up a flare every now and then to let y'all know that I'm still here and still working. Collecting numbers and pictures is a bit like collecting data, though more colorful and less requiring of accuracy than figures on a clipboard. The site is quiet, but the library is growing. I'm in a gathering phase now, enjoying the leisurely pace while most of my creative output is pouring into playing snooker drinking Guinness working on my novel and preparing for tour. But I know there are a handful of you out there who check in from time to time, and I haven't forgotten.

Posting may be light for awhile, but we'll see if some time spent in cooler climates over the next few weeks doesn't do some work toward jump-starting my brain. And those who read about my experience with the Envy-on-Wye literary festival may be happy to hear that I exorcised some of that envy by taking part in this year's Bloomsday festivities in New York a few weeks ago. Sheila, who was there in full force and wrote up a wonderful account of the day's geeky adventures, even joined me in volunteering to read a passage from Ulysses. One thing I can say, it's that when Colum McCann asks you to do something, you can only say Yes.

Wednesday, June 2, 2010

Envy-on-Wye

Merrion Square, Dublin

It would appear by reports from the front lines that the summer book festival season is upon us -- and by us I mean everyone in English-speaking countries not bordered by the nice Canadians. Yes, I'm looking at all you lucky louts in the UK who got to luxuriate in the Hay-on-Wye Festival over the past weekend, and ahem, I'm glaring covetously at you, too, Dublin Writers Festival, which is carrying on right now this week without me, thanks very much. Those with even the slightest bit of &7 awareness will know the blind excitement the words Dublin, writers, and festival can incite in me (well, maybe not festival -- let's not get carried away), and it doesn't help that I'm on the wrong side of the ocean, roistering in an over-heated Brooklyn apartment while Writer O'This and Scribbler McThat are spilling hilarious anecdotes about their craft to a captive, Guinness-infused, story-loving audience.

I mean, you may as well say, "Welcome to the Envy-on-Wye Book Festival, Therese. Today we'll be offering free single malt scotch and unlimited cotton candy. There's a charming little spot in the shade where you can chortle over the latest Bill Bryson book and afterward you can hang out and enjoy a rousing round of darts with Stephen Fry. Oh, and over in the corner we've set up a private booth where James McAvoy will be reading to you from the Complete Works of W.B. Yeats, starting in five minutes with 'An Irish Airman Foresees His Death'. Right! Any questions?"

Yes, I do enjoy a good book festival. Brooklyn, of course, is not exactly a stranger to the book festival circuit, and I have to say they do a nice job each year of gathering a fantastic panel of writers to read and entertain. But after flipping through the Guardian's "Hay Special" edition of G2 (I did quite enjoy Decca Aitkenhead's Confessions of a first-time festival goer), I have to say that nothing here even comes close. Call me a hopeless romantic, but I'd love to shuffle off to a charming B&B after a day of readings rather than realizing I've been sitting for the past hour outside the Supreme Court building on a patch of grass marked with a Rodenticide label. Too much to ask? Maybe.

So if you're one of the lucky few who made it to Hay, or are around this week for the Dublin Writers Festival, do send my regards. And make sure to check out the insanely talented Paul Murray on June 5th. I'll be here, crying into my Laphroaig and watching Atonement for the fifth, no sixth, time. I do hope you're satisfied.

Monday, May 24, 2010

1 to 99 on the Number Line


The Fall Café, Smith Street, Brooklyn

I'll admit it. I've missed the numbers.

Over the weekend I found myself persuaded out of my blue-book-induced stupor to head down to Tribeca, break out the hammer and sickle nails, and hang a bunch of numbers on a wall. It's the first time I've done such a thing since my installation at The Fall Café in Brooklyn in September 2007 (see above), and accompanied by good friends and free-flowing wine, it was all very gratifying. A hit-and-run installation injected a bit of adventure into my otherwise work-plagued weekend, and after hours of uneventful eyestrain I was more than ready for the task of carrying heavy planks of wood down four flights of stairs in three-inch heels -- a skill perfected after many gigs with Balthrop, Alabama, where lugging white picket fences up and down narrow stairs is par for the course. (Speaking of the band, we had a nice pick-me-up last week when NPR named "Subway Horns" as its song of the day. Not to toot my own, er, subway horn, but those are some wonderful friends I play music with.)

The number line went up Saturday night, hung around for a few hours while friends played music and read from their duct-taped chapbooks of poetry and novels-in-progress, and the next thing I knew I was back in Brooklyn, shooting pool at B61 (the bar, not the bus), trading tales of childhood shoplifting.

As is often the case with any event where good friends and wine are present, I realized much later that the colorful evening had slipped away before I remembered to capture the night's installation for that old drudge of a companion, Posterity. But a bit of digging around unearthed this archeological specimen, a picture from the original installation in 2007, so I thought I'd post it. After all, the grid of planks hanging on that yellow wall, coated tip-to-toe in numbers, is where the harebrained idea of this blog had its genesis. (Peter Gabriel is singing "Supper's Ready" as I write, and I think it's affecting my syntax.)

Before &7, there was only Prague, Vienna, and Budapest. There was only #1-99. Oh yeah, and there was this sullen self-portrait I found stuffed into the beautiful Venetian notebook where I collected all the data for the photographs. (For reasons I don't entirely remember, Vienna turned me into a sour teenager one afternoon, until I got my bearings. Yes, that is a picture of a Prague tank on my black hoodie.)


Also in the pile of forgotten goodies was my slightly crinkled original artist statement, which explains some of the method to the madness -- the intricate art of number-hunting. I thought I'd post it here to appease the grumbling chap Posterity, and to share it with those of you who blinked and therefore never got to see the installation:
I can’t think about the numbers in this series without thinking about a certain West Virginia license plate. We travelled a lot as a family, mostly camping trips out West that involved endless hours on the open road, gazing out at passing cars and scenery through the grubby windows of a blue Econoline van. Like any kid on a long road trip, I invented ways of making the time on the long interstates pass more quickly. A favorite was the license plate game, which involved “collecting” all 50 states. Inevitably, the trip would run out before we got through even half the list. My only success with finding all 50 states finally came at the age of 21, when I was tearing up Route 90 in my brother’s red minivan on my post-college American road trip (TM). The West Virginia plate, with its blue-clawed state outline, was the last on my list (yes, I had Alaska; yes, I had Hawaii), and I was so overcome to finally see it fueling up at a gas station in Colorado that I startled the driver by shouting out, “There it IS! I GOT it!” and proudly catalogued the end of my search with a proudly written WEST VIRGINIA in a spiral notebook. Not only was it more exciting than Route 80 through Nebraska (it would be hard to think of anything that wasn’t), it was more exciting than the afternoon hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park. In a way, finding the complete set was one of the highlights of the trip.

The task of intertwining the leisure of travel with the obsessive hunt has always held a certain appeal. Other people collect shot glasses to mark their journeys, I collect images. The license plate game sustained me while travelling on the roads of the U.S.A. It wasn’t until I started exploring the side streets and cobblestone alleys of European cities that I was awakened to the idea of collecting numbers.

The 99 numbers in this series, taken in 3 cities – Prague, Vienna, and Budapest – over the course of 2 weeks in the summer of 2006, show a wide variety of styles in architecture and typography: some are extraordinarily ornamental, others quite ordinary. The project was born as much out of an interest in methodology (i.e., giving my obsessive-compulsive mind something to fixate on and watching how it grappled with the task) as it was an art project. The two have never been far apart for me.

Every number here has a story. Some were captured quite deliberately: the stark, graphic image of the 54 on a wall in Prague was the number that started the idea for the project, followed swiftly by an ornamental 3 near the castle and a nearby bright red 9. Another number, astride the Praterstern ferris wheel in Vienna, came to me through sheer happenstance: I was in a moving tram and quickly snapped a shot through the window, hoping for some “good numbers”. I discovered only later that I had found my 28. The hunt for numbers 1-99 began with the same sense of ease that marks the start of any crossword puzzle, only to end in a frantic final 24-hour push in Budapest for the upper register numbers that rivalled the Louvre-in-45-minutes in Godard’s Band of Outsiders.

My original concept was to collect 99 numbers and eventually compile the images into either a handbound book or to display the collection on a single wall in its entirety. The literal throw-it-all-on-the-wall approach turned out to be the idea that seemed the most fitting. You can take in the whole sequence all at once, a task and pleasure that would be impossible otherwise. The eye is drawn as much to the exhaustiveness of the whole as it is to the sum of its parts. And as anyone who has seen my notebooks can attest, boxes and order have always been part of my way of structuring my world and art. For inspiration for this installation format, I owe a debt to the work of Zak Smith, whose excellent Pictures Showing What Happens on Every Page of Thomas Pynchon’s Gravity’s Rainbow, blew my mind at the Whitney Biennial a few years back. Thanks, Zak. I may get around to making that book someday, too.

And so here they are, compiled at last, each one of the 99 numbers gathered from my two-week trip: snatched from architectural pieces, stolen from electrical boxes, from Russian submarine clock storefronts, road signs, modern art museum lockers, planetarium installations, memorials, and tram wires.

What was the last number compiled in this collection, my West Virginia license plate of the journey? I won’t forget that one, either. Number 42. Taken at a terminal of the Budapest airport. Nothing like coming in right under the wire.

Therese Cox
Brooklyn, 2007
That tome ought to keep Posterity quiet for awhile, and I can head now back to Blue Book Mountain, safe in the knowledge I've done my word count penance after a slow week. Mea culpa to those who come here not just for pictures but for all the chicken scratch that accompanies it. Thanks again for the inspiration, Zak Smith. And many thanks to the supremely talented, all-encouraging, über-organized Jackie for giving me the opportunity to dust off the numbers. It's good to be back.

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Red vs. Read

Smithfield, Dublin

Apologies for the scant verbal offerings lately, but it's exam week and I've been laboring like the lumpenproletariat. I'll be back in fine form once I lay down the hammer, sickle, and stack of blue books and return to my usual wanton wordy ways. But till then, I'm afraid it's socialist realism hour at &7. Inspiring stuff for the underpaid part-time profs and brave workers among us. You know who you are.

Incidentally, I see from the stamp on the back of this university-issue exam booklet before me that they've been assembled at the Jefferson Rehabilitation Center in Watertown, NY. What does it say that I'd rather be assembling these flimsy exam books than grading them? Oh, never mind. Back to the pseudo-anarchist slogans and graffiti with me. It's all I'm good for.

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

Tuesday, May 18, 2010