Showing posts with label chicago. Show all posts
Showing posts with label chicago. Show all posts

Saturday, February 23, 2013

#312: Area Code

DUMBO, Brooklyn
312 was my area code when I was a kid, and I still feel a connection with it. All Chicago phone numbers -- both the city and the suburbs -- were 312 until I entered the double digits, when Chicago kept 312 and 708 became the area code for the suburbs. It remained that way till the truly inglorious and forgettable 847 arrived, and I've stopped developing fond feelings for area codes ever since.

By the way, as for "Chicagoland," I never liked that phrase, but it rolls off the tongue better than "The Greater Chicagoland Area," which I should remember every time I stumble over "Columbia Waterfront District." It seems I'm destined to live in places that push the 140-character limit.

Saturday, February 9, 2013

#326: Chicago Ghost Sign

Chicago, IL
I didn't snap nearly enough of these faded ads last time I was skulking about the south side. The fun bit about working with ghost signs is that if you can't read what the numbers are, you can draw your own conclusions. Is that third number after "PHONE" a 6 or an 8? Chicago phone numbers have both the 326 and 328 exchange, so it could be either. But since I needed a new 326 for today, I'm gonna go out on a limb and stick with 6.

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

#110: Janis Jalopy

Arlington Heights, IL

Brought to you by the same artist that brought you the Natalie Portman bird-squirrel-teapot and the creepy three trees. That's one dapper-looking jalopy. And the old gal driving it, pedal to the metal, looks to have a bee in her bonnet.

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

#117: Nuts!

Arlington Heights, IL

I'm fairly sure this shadow is meant to suggest a squirrel in profile, but how much more fun to treat it as a Rorschach blob and see what other images come to mind? A black swan, for instance, gliding off to the sunset, or a heart with a fist through it and a flappy ventricle attached to the side, or . . . or . . .

Friday, May 27, 2011

Monday, April 25, 2011

#251: Chicago Spikes

Chicago, IL

There are many beautiful things in the world, but I can't think of many that beat flying into Chicago on a clear day over Lake Michigan, seeing that unreal skyline come into view through the plane window. For me, it's a view that also means going home. It means I'm about to throw myself back into all the things that make up who I am: architecture-gawking downtown. Hockey-watching on the TV and Pat Foley's voice shouting "Hawks win! Hawks win!" Suburbs with lakes, forests, rivers, groves, and oaks in the name. Bicycle-riding through the Morton Arboretum. Alleys and wooden fire escapes. Telephone wires. Pizza that puts sauce on the top. Dis, dat, and dese guys. Easter Sunday borscht with my family. Things that make me homesick when I'm away. Things I savor from the second that plane lands at O'Hare till the second it's wheels up all over again.

Wednesday, December 30, 2009

#364













#364, Chicago

"Performance is about the urgency of vanishing."

I remember hearing these words spoken in a dusty black box theatre in Evanston my senior year at Northwestern University. It was the week before our final performances for our Non-fiction Studies class and we were gathered around the stage with our scripts and our props (I was probably packing a pince-nez and anguished letter to Maud Gonne as part of my transformation into the great Irish poet W.B. Yeats), listening to a pep talk from our professor, Dr. Dwight Conquergood.

He was the consummate enthusiast though that term -- "pep talk" -- doesn't quite capture all that went into one of Dwight's addresses. Dwight (he wanted us to call him Dwight; no one ever called him anything else) could go from the quotidian ("Eat lots of yogurt! Complex carbohydrates are good for boosting energy!") to the pedagogical ("Performance is about the urgency of vanishing") to the encouraging (just about anything else the man ever said) in the span of one spirited burst.

Though I remember him saying many things that were wise, this phrase is the one I remember most: "Performance is about the urgency of vanishing."

Even before that day, it had been an intense semester. The point of the Non-fiction Studies class was to research a historical figure we were interested in, arrange the research -- all primary source material -- into a script, then put it together into a one-person show. I was armed to the teeth with Yeats books and would spend long hours at the Pita Inn consorting with Emily, Jill, and Sarah -- Toshi Maruki, Bette Davis, and Charlotte Perkins Gilman, respectively -- over jasmine tea and falafel, talking about our projects. Dwight liked to call the class "a caravan." It was a fitting metaphor. There we all were, piling things into our separate cars, carting our own baggage and tricks, but we were all on the same journey. We were all headed for the same scary but rewarding place: the stage. Other students took a class with Professor So-and-So. We rode on a caravan with Dwight.

But as for the show itself, what did I know of the seriousness of such an endeavor? I was twenty-one years old. I was just a bundle of energy and coffee. I grew very interested very quickly in the nuts and bolts of the script: what aspect of Yeats' life to focus on, what "lens" to put on it, and wouldn't it be cool if I threw in some ancient Rosicrucian ritual stuff to the blocking? It was Dwight who gently guided us to the idea that we were not just putting on a show. We were performing somebody's life, and to do that well required much more from us than the simple audacity -- "Hey look, I'm this dead poet/ movie star/ important religious figurehead!" -- we all vaguely felt. It wasn't enough to just slap together a script and say a couple of lines and hope it all held water. What we were doing required empathy. We had to try to see a life from the inside out rather than from the outside in.

When we first walked into his course one blustery fall Chicago day, we'd all heard great things about Dwight Conquergood's class. He was academically respected and the chair of the Performance Studies department. We immediately liked him: a positive, smiling, sharply intelligent man with little wire-framed glasses, slim build, and fair skin and hair. His friendly appearance gave the impression of a lovable uncle, or -- if not for all that vast intelligence underneath the cheery demeanor -- even a greeter at Wal-Mart.

Weeks before he uttered those lines about performance and vanishing in the black box theatre, there was one day in class -- maybe to give us a break from our own projects, maybe because some of us had asked -- Dwight presented some of his research on gangs. He showed us slides of Latin Kings' graffiti and spoke of the semiotics of gang symbols. His area of interest was working with disadvantaged or marginalized communities: Hmong refugees in Laos, gang members in Chicago. What we hadn't known was that in the eighties, he moved into a housing project in Albany Park called Big Red, a part of Chicago so rife with crime it was known as "Little Beirut." Gangs, crime, graffiti, and disorder -- that was what he faced on a day to day basis. No one told him to do it. It was his idea. He was studying a community, Dwight reasoned, so there was no better way to do that than to live among the people he was trying to get to know.

Little by little -- and often at great risk to his personal safety -- Dwight became part of the community. He gained the trust of gang members. He learned about them because he had a profound desire to understand and wanted help give them a voice in a society that thought they had nothing worthy to say. He didn't see them as academic subjects. He tutored and mentored them. He attended their funerals. He thought their stories were important and deserved to be heard. Even after he suffered an assault while living alone in Albany Park, he stayed in Big Red. When he said that to represent someone's life was a great responsibility, it was because he knew it firsthand.

Did my performance about Yeats and the occult change lives? No. Did it give voice to someone marginalized and misunderstood? Depends, I suppose, on your definition of marginalized and misunderstood. But I did learn a great lesson in the process of putting on my dusty old cape and pince-nez and reciting "He Wishes His Beloved Were Dead." If we are lucky enough to have a written document of a person's life -- what they saw, thought, and experienced -- we are left with a great gift and a great responsibility. And the fragile quality of that gift is what can make a performance so poignant, or an untouched drift of snow beautiful, or a wonderful holiday somehow painful: because we are aware that as it is happening, it is also leaving us.

One day a few years after graduation, I heard from a former classmate that Dwight had been diagnosed with cancer. He was no longer teaching, and the cancer, I was told, was gradually worsening. The next day, I sat down with a big pad of stationery to write Dwight a letter.

It was a difficult letter to begin. Of course it was. But there was no choice. I had to start. I told him how much I had learned from him. I recounted my memories of "the caravan" and tried to put into words my gratitude. I tried, already grieving, to still be present in the moment, to simply say what I was able and hope it would be enough, even as I knew it could not be. I signed my name with love and enclosed a photograph of me, Emily, Jill, and Sarah -- friendships I forged in Dwight's Non-fiction Studies class, fellow passengers on that mad, wonderful caravan, friendships that remain strong to this day. I sealed the envelope. I put on a stamp and walked down the four flights of stairs of my Brooklyn apartment and out to the nearest mailbox. I took a deep breath, then slipped the letter in the mailbox.

As I walked back home from the street corner -- no tears yet, only a lump in my throat -- I thought back to that enthusiastic, gesticulating professor giving us a pep talk in the black box theatre, speaking excitedly of yogurt and empathy. I thought, again, of that day when he talked to us about the urgency of vanishing.

When I received word a few months later that Dwight had passed away, I returned, after hanging up the phone, to some of my old notebooks. In them, I had placed important papers from college (I threw away nearly all my notes), and I found some hand-written notes from Dwight. He would watch our rehearsals and give us feedback while we stumbled through our lines or tripped over our props, and his notes were always written in his elegant, scrupulous script. Everything he wrote was positive: not a mindless optimism, but a deeply grounded, intelligent reflection on what we were attempting. Any small feats of empathy we achieved -- we captured someone's true voice, we were sensitive to the difficulties of cross-cultural or cross-gendered representation, we had done our research well -- Dwight treated like a great victory. It gave us courage to attempt what felt like the unattemptable. I can think of no greater gift a teacher can give his students than that.

Dwight saw performance in everything around him. It was interchangeable with life. It was, in his own words, both "a contest and struggle." The urgency he described to the whole endeavor, well, I feel that a lot, whether or not there's a curtain rising or falling. That's part, I guess, of what makes life so precious. Vanishing is not just a fact of performance, it's a fact of life. But what a shame it is when the vanishing comes so soon.

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

#301












#301, Arlington Heights, IL


Out in the suburbs, you don't see too many of those "rugged individualist" numbers Ralph Waldo Emerson wrote about. (What? He wasn't talking about typography?) It's not a slam on suburbia or a commentary on the homogenous strip-mall existence to point out that frankly, it's easier for most folks to hop in the car and roll on up to the Home Depot to get their house numbers than go around tinkering with metallurgy. So when I do spot a bit of ingenuity like this crooked 301, I have to give props to the invisible hand that hammer-and-nailed this into the brick side of a house. It gets points for quirkiness and class, unlike the oversized hardware store "HIS" and "HERS" lettering that graced our next-door neighbor's garage for years and years -- all the more heinous as the store was out of "I"s so the actual text read: H1S and HERS. But this 301 gets it just right.

Sunday, September 27, 2009

#270












#270, Bruges


It's 30 km to Roeselare, 21 to Lichtervelde, and 270 to Paris from the bell tower in Bruges. It's 366 steps to the top, a feat of exercise I'll never see in the same way ever since watching Martin McDonagh's film In Bruges, about two Irish hit men hiding out in the picturesque Medieval Belgian city. They spend most of the film trying to keep from killing themselves -- or each other -- out of sheer boredom while waiting for instructions for their next job. When they receive news they'll be stuck in Medieval Disneyland for two whole weeks, a trip to the tower seems unavoidable. Or two trips. Or ten.

Climbing the steps of the bell tower is basically the touristy thing to do in this tiny town, and the bunch of overweight American tourists in the movie who announce their intention to climb to the top get a skeptical tongue-lashing from Colin Farrell's character, who is, as Brendan Gleeson's character points out, "about the worst tourist in the whole world." As a backdrop, the tower provides the film with some of its best comic and tragic scenes.

I love it when a city plays a major role in either a movie or a book, when its personality becomes so intertwined with the story that the city itself becomes a main character. I think of Carl Sandburg's Chicago in Harvest Poems, Joyce's Dubliners, or Hemingway's Paris in A Moveable Feast. The authors of these books -- this is also true of McDonagh -- make their cities come to life. We see them, feel them, smell them, and hear them. We see beyond the main tourist attractions and simple set pieces -- though these are often included in the stories -- to the quirks and weaknesses of each place. I love Dublin these days, but after living with the emotionally stifled characters in Joyce's Dubliners for fifteen stories, I sure wouldn't have wanted to see it at the turn of the last century. Chicago's changed since the Sandburg called it the Hog Butcher for the World, but I still imagine it as a place of grit and hard-boiled characters. Chicago, to me, is a man and Paris is a woman. Is it my own experience that makes me think this, or does the writing have something to do with it? Has my view of each place been shaped by what I've read or seen about it?

It's possible to fall in love with a place -- or (ahem, Las Vegas) fear and loathe it -- based on a book, a movie, or even a set of photographs. It's also possible to be reminded of the places we've traveled to, lived in, or loved by revisiting it through another's eyes. Bruges would've been the last place I'd have thought to set a movie about two hit men, but now I'll never be able to think of Bruges without them.

Sunday, August 23, 2009

#235













#235, South Loop, Chicago

City of the Big Shoulders. And of cool stencil numbers. This yellow post was, and probably still is, holding up the El tracks south of the Loop. There are a few sights and sounds I forever associate with Chicago, but maybe the most prominent is the rattling noise of a passing El train.

When I was 17, I made my very first 4-track recording at my brother's apartment on Albion. There was just me, my new nylon string acoustic guitar, and a compact hunk of gorgeous analog recording gear in an airy room with hardwood floors. And, of course, there was the El, the trusty, industrious elevated railway, with cars passing so close to the apartment it shook the window panes. We had to time our takes so we started recording just after a train passed, crossing our fingers one wouldn't slash by from the opposite direction anytime soon.

In any city, there is something reassuring about steel and rivets and train tracks. But in my personified Chicago, thanks, in equal parts to Carl Sandburg and Nelson Algren, the steel is a little bit stronger and rivets a little bit tighter. And the trains I could ride all day long.

Monday, August 17, 2009

#229













#229, South Loop, Chicago

Today's 2 for 1 special: a ghost sign with an additional ghost concept: the old telephone exchange abbreviation system. Back before everyone had three personal phone numbers, in the days when switchboard operators still labored away in tiny cement buildings connecting and untangling cables by hand (my Luddite heart beats warmly to think of these days when you could still sort of get the logic behind how dialing this leads to that), you had these little clusters of people living in the same spot whose phone numbers all began with the same prefix. To make it simple, the prefix was often written out as a word instead of numbers, based on the area where the phone numbers were centered: Gramercy numbers would begin with 47 (GR), and so on. The John O'Hara story BUtterfield 8 and the song PEnnsylvania 65000 both riff on this idea.

Really old phone books and ghost ads like this one will sometimes show signs of this mostly outdated system. Instead of an ad telling you to dial 842-2973, instead you'd see this one that reads VIctory 22973. Or, because I'm running a tight ship around here, you'll see only part of it. You get the idea. I crop because I care.

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

#210












#210, Highwood, IL

Saturday, July 25, 2009

#206












#206, Arlington Heights, IL

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

#175











#175, Elk Grove Village, IL

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

#161











#161, Elk Grove Village, IL


This unremarkable suburban curb, spray-painted and stenciled with a 161, makes me feel weirdly homesick. Fitting, since I grew up in the two-story blue-gray house just behind it. There was no American flag in the 161 I knew - patriotism wasn't quite the growth industry that it is today - but I do recall, in my all-noticing, Harriet-the-Spy way, taking special notice of the fact that all the houses in our neighborhood had the addresses painted on the curb and thinking this was important.

The original black and white 161 was there for years. It underwent a slow fade into obscurity until the village repainted them all, this time with a bright white background with a much larger, tall, forest green stenciled number. The new number existed alongside the ghost for years, and I looked forward to seeing them both when I walked home from school. It was a comforting sight. The numbers - almost more than the house - meant I was home.

Now both of them have faded, replaced by this flag, though I did hunt doggedly for clues to their existence (much to the consternation of the people peering out at me through what used to be my window). Visits to the past can be cool, and then they get creepy, and then it's time to drive off, wondering if the toboggan hill in front of you has sunken over the years or if you always remember things as in a rearview mirror where objects are smaller than they once appeared.

Thursday, April 16, 2009

#106











#106, Arlington Heights, IL



Lest I be accused of hating on brick, I should preface this by saying that few things meet my eye more approvingly than a good brick wall, preferably one in a state of artful semi-decay. But there's just a quality to the brick work in a lot of Chicago's suburbs that just rubs me the wrong way. You see it mostly in those boxy bungalows they built in the 50's like they were going out of style. (In this case, they were out of style to begin with, so they have simply folded still farther inward on their own ugliness with the passing of time.) The colors are unappetizing, the textures unpleasantly rough, and there's just. So. Much of it. So I do appreciate it when a brave soul tries to brighten up the dullness with something unique and homespun. There's a block in Arlington Heights (the town where I was born) that has a whole series of these hand-crafted address signs: a squirrel nibbling on a nut for 117, a jaunty girl behind the wheel of a Studebaker in 110. Yet there is something creepy about these three whitewashed trees that I can't quite put my finger on.

Thursday, February 19, 2009

#50












#50, Elk Grove Village, IL


I have a few distinct memories of childhood trips to see Dr. McNamara, our family doctor, and they're mostly related to things I'd see around me. First, there were the red metal railings along the interior stairwell. I'll have to verify this, but I seem to remember one of them was positioned at kid-height, which I thought quite thoughtful of them. I still had fresh fears from Tot Lot preschool that I'd slip through the open spaces between stairs and was grateful for anything to cling to during my ascents and descents. (This is why I still balk at trips up the wobbly Plexiglass stairwell at the Apple store in SoHo.) Second, there were the joyfully tactile, hedgehog-like Bristle Blocks in the waiting room that helped pass the interminable waiting period. Wait time was usually no more than five or ten minutes, but to a kid who'd rather be out on a bicycle, it felt like enduring the long stretch of Christmas Eve night, only with much less to look forward to. And then there was the joy of spotting the gigantic numbers on the nearby office/industrial buildings. They were unapologetically yellow, rather hideous, and completely out of scale with any suburban house numbers I'd ever seen. If I'd been standing next to one, it would've measured close to my own height. I couldn't believe that someone actually made numbers that big and bright and that they were allowed to be on buildings, especially buildings so brown and so boring. This 50, along with its neighbors 60 and 70, are still there on those boring, brown buildings, and any time I visit my hometown and stop by for a slice at nearby Munchie's pizza, they still make me scratch my head and wonder.